TIBET October 15th, 2009, Lhasa

Footnote:

Dear Chinese Government, I don’t mean to criticize, but I have one pertinent suggestion. I highly suggest that you place numerous signs throughout the airport and all border crossings warning tourists about Bo cha, otherwise known as Yak Butter Tea. You see, the average tourist palate is incapable of appreciating the delights of tea made from yak butter and salt. Also while I’m at it, don’t you have some form of torture (since this is your specialty) you could administer to any Tibetan who dares to serve Bo cha to a tourist who just ordered cha ngamo (sweet milky tea)?

Lhasa has a crosswalk! I was so excited I actually went out of my way to use it even though I didn't need to cross the street. Eyes focused on the blinking green man I stepped into the street just in time for a Han Chinese man in a landcruiser to casually attempt to run me over.

Apparently a red light means go also. I flew in yesterday afternoon. Following almost a dozen passport and visa checks by an abundance of Chinese military, our friend Doug and our Tibetan guide Norbu greeted us with the traditional white scarf, called a kha tak, which is used as an honor or to say welcome. For military reasons the airport is separated by two valleys. I began to feel the altitude sickness right away. It is difficult to explain how it feels but at least my case is relatively mild. It feels a bit like anxiety and like someone is sitting on me and Im tired but cant sleep as if I had too much coffee. Anyway its been 24 hours now and it seems to be subsiding. We are at 12000 ft. so it’s pretty darned high. The sun is intense! Its cool enough for a jacket but the sun burns my legs through my jeans. Doug has three cafes in the old part of town which is where I am staying in a hotel called Kychu.

On my way there I made my first observations about Lhasa. The people are absolutely gorgeous! The men all look like Tibetan Antonio Banderas' with a cowboy swagger and wear cool blue jeans like a hollywood director. Unlike Kathmandu, the shops are filled with locals who seem to have money to spend. The women wear traditional Tibetan chupas and swaddle their babies on their backs. The streets are clean and filled with Tibetans and Han Chinese. Groups of military police line every street corner holding riot gear, while other groups march through the streets. The heavy show of military is intended to remind the Tibetans who is in charge night and day.